Locating Local Peaks
A thumbnail page that shows the names of the local mountains.

Park Information
The Waterton Park's homepage from the government of Canada. Also check out the Glacier Park page for information south of the border.

Accomodations
Links on where to stay. In the winter, most climbers crash at the picnic shelter on Pass Creek, just past the Red Rock Canyon turn off. This has a large shelter with a wood stove. It is reasonably sheltered from the wind. I beleive the hostel in the Lodge is still open, but am not sure if the pool and hot tub are. In the summer, the favorite campground is Crandell Lake. If you are wanting some privacy, try Belly River campground. It is by the border, and so is a ways away, but it is secluded, and swimming in the creek is refreshing. It seems like Glacier Sweets is the most popular place to stay. Kilmorey is good for the food and a romantic get away, but rooms tend to be a bit small. Crandell Lodge is nice as it has kitchenettes. In the summer the Stanley Hotel (above the Pharmacy & Gust Gallery) used to be the cheapest spot.

Area History
A collecection of some stories and images about the park. Brief, but well done. If you are looking for some good history on the park, try picking up a copy of "The Trapper". This is available at Borderline Books. "Bear's I Have Known" is also a great read that gives you a different perspective on the current bear scare. It is hard to believe, but none of the stories in it are exaggerated, in fact the author tneds to understate things more than he should.

Kayaking
Unlike meccas like Golden, Missoula, Boise, and Fort Steele, Waterton is not a true white water destination. This does not, however, mean that there is little to interest the avid paddler. A number of small creeks and waterfalls make this a unique area to visit during the short peak run off season. The nearby town of Pincher Creek is good destination for the intermediate paddler intent on low volume runs. The numerous large mountain lakes on both sides of the border also provide picturesque scenery for short, mellow get aways. Paddle Fernie is also a good site to check out if you want information of things over in BC.

Rock Climbing
While not the Bow Valley co-oridor, Waterton does have a few small crags and easy scrambles that are gaining popularity with those that prefer a bit more solitude. The rock here is not as solid as other areas in the Rockies, so visitors should be wary if they think things further up north had a loose reputation.

Ice Climbing
Outside of beautiful summer hikes, this is perhaps Waterton's forte. Milder, and more stable winters than those further up north, make for a good freeze thaw cycle that helps the numerous popular ice routes come into shape. While things are getting more crowded down here, it still seems like the crowds concentrate on the two main routes along the Cameron Highway. If you are prepared to do some longer approaches, you are sure to have a number of multipitch gems to yourself.

Scrambling
Few of the mountains in the Canadian side of the park are remarkable scrambles. This, however, has never been much of an issue for the numerous peak baggers that abound. A couple of excellent routes do exist in the park. On the U.S. side, things do, however, get better. Short drives to the states can provide the interested scrambler with hoards of mountains from which to view the color worn vistas.

Alpine Climbing
Due to the paucity of active climbers in the area, little has been established. In Waterton, the mountains really aren't condusive to enjoyable routes. In Glacier, lack of winter access has sealed off investigation of what must be significant potential. If you are into exploration the U.S. side could provide you with a number of interesting first ascents.

Hiking
This is the main reason why people come to the park. The unique micro climate of the area means that numerous plants and flowers abound. This coupled with the vivid colors in the rocks, severe glaciation and erosion make this one of the most attractive areas in the Rockies. Loads of accesible trails also mean that it is easy to get out and experience what so many people rave about.

Mountain Biking
While biking in the park is severly limited, numerous old loggin roads north and west of the park mean that this is a very good destination for long pedals on old fire roads. Traverses from the east side to the west side of the Rockies are great, but the shuttle can be a big nuisance.

 

Scuba Diving
There is a small wreck, the Gertrude, that was sunk on purpose in Emerald Bay. This is where local divers flock to. It is located in front on the picnic area underneat the Prince Of Whales Hotel. Just below of PW, by the narrows, in a small cove in the middle lake, there is also a sizeable collection of junk that may interest divers. When they were changing china at the hotel, they couldn't decide who would get the stuff, so instead of upsetting everyone, they just dumped it through a hole in the ice. Some big boxes of china should be down there.

 

Cliff Jumping
If you want to do this, be fore warned, lots of people end up having close calls. The best place to cliff jump is at the Wishbone in the middle lake. You either need to do a long mountain bike ride along the vimy trail to get here, or get a boat. It is located directly under the north face of Vimy, in the middle lake. The cliffs don't look to high from the water, but they are about 30 to 40 feet. The cliffs continue in the water a long ways, so hitting bottom really isn't a concern. The top overahangs a little, making things fairly safe. There are no spots to jump that are lower than 30 feet. The other place to jump is by Expert's Choice (Deja Vu). The cliff here is also about 30 feet high, however the pool is not all that deep. Do it in high water, and be prepared to hit the bottom. The creek is very cold. Some people also jump just below where Cameron Creek comes into the main lake. This is hard to get to, and the ledges can be a bit slipery. You also have to make sure to clear the slabs along the lake shore. Crypt Lake has an excellent spot to cliff jump from on the back right side of the lake. Usually the difficulty is in missing the ice bergs, and not going hypothermic before you make it back to shore. Expect heights from 5 to 20 feet. Forum lake also has a spot on the back right of the lake. Again the water is fairly cold, but much better than Crypt. Heights range from 5 feet to 20 feet.

 

Beaches
Not too warm if you are used to the tropics. The only time they are worthwhile is during the heat spells in the end of July and August. Most tourists are familiar with Farmers Bay (the small seaweed filled bay behind the Park Office in the Townsite), and Emerald Bay (the picnic area directly underneath the PW hotel), but not as many people now about the good spots down by Pass Creek. The Marquis hole is one place to relax, although the sand by the picnic shelter is fairly rocky, the sand by the middle lake muddy, and the mosquitoes fairly hungry. If you take the road just east of the Red Rock turnoff, you can head down to Pass Creek (some people call this the Dardenelles). There are few different spots to relax here. Directly in front of the parking there is some soft sand. Head to the main channel and go downstream about 30m. The best beach requires you to wade across the small creek off to your right (south east). Once across this, truck across the sand and rocks for about 100m. You will encounter a slightly larger creek (Pass Creek or Blackiston Creek). If you don't want to cross this, there is some good sand along the river to your left. The water here is also fairly deep. If you cross the creek you get to a small pennisula at a bend in a river. This is the nicest spot. There is lots of sand, the water is very deep, and slow moving. This is a good spot for kids to play around on tubes.

 

Native Natural History Sites
There are a number of interesting historical sites that you won't find out about at the Park Information Center, or in many books. Travois tracks are fairly obvious in a number of spots. The pullout just past the Beaver Pond on the Red Rock Highway is a good spot to find them. Take the trail that heads off to the Buffalo Paddock. You will have to know what you are looking for to find them, but the trail intersects the travois tracks in the first dip you cross. They seem to dissapear off to the right (east), but can be found going across knights hill, or in the meadow just before the turn off to Pass creek (hard to distinguish now from the underground telephone line). Off to the left, the tracks become more obvious, and you will also come across a failry large ?prayer circle?. Most of the rocks were moved by the boundary commision. They described finding a large altar rock and large circle of stones. These were moved to set up their equipment. The large rock had a hole drilled in it to stable some equipment. Now you can still find some large rocks that have been buried and the altar that looks directly down the lake to the south. It is a pretty location, and you can imagine natives using it before setting across the Sage Pass.

There are also supposed to be a number of Medicine Wheels along the top of Knight's Hill.

The old ford by Marquis Hole used to be quite a good place to find arrow heads, but it seems like, despite this being a national park, the frequency with which you find the has decreased substantially from the 1930's.

If you head up the bottom of Rowe or Lineham creeks, you will come across some oil seeps. These were quite widely known, and were what led to the short lived oil boom in the area in the early 1900's. Natives used to collect the oil to use in medicines.

A natural outcropping of Red Hematite (used to make red dye for ceremonies and war paint) also exists just north of the park.

Last Reset
November 11, 2003

Updates

Dec 6th - I was down in Glacier on the 5th, looking for ice up at Otokomi. Nothing worthwile was found. However, there were a number of nice, almost formed lines behind the town of St. Mary's.

Nov 16th - I have been playing around with the idea of getting a blog going for the Waterton Area. As time is becoming more scarce for me, I thought this would be a good idea to help get some information together about what is going on in the area. I have found that quite a few people come down to the area and have a hard time finding people to go with. While not a discussion board, hopefully this will prove to be an easy way to get up to date information, and find some people who are going out hiking, scrambling, or climbing.

Nov 1st - Went for a hike up Sofa to try and get into Sullivan's falls for some early season ice. The ice was still thin. If the road is open, this is still the quickest approach.

Nov 1st - Posted some simple route descriptions for a couple of different scrambles. Hawkins, Kishinena, Blackiston, Forum, Glendowan. See the site map for the links

Oct 15th- I have been going through and trying to get some rough directions to scrambling all the peaks in waterton up. So far I have been working through about 2 or 3 peaks a week. Unfortunatel, most of these descriptions are going to be rather vague unitl I can get out with the notebook next spring. However, they should give enough info so that people who are new to the area can figure out the easiest way up each of the peaks.

avion ridge . bellevue . bertha . blakiston . boswell east . boswell south . buchannan

Oct 2 - With the new guide book coming out, I figure I would do my part to help out. I have included pdf files of the guide. If you have hard time finding a copy, or can't afford to buy one, feel free to print these off.

Oct2 - This weekend a few of us went down to check out the cracks on the east side of Mt. Clements down in Glacier. The cracks were a bit too cold for pleasant climbing. We found one 5.7 crack up the middle of the wall that had a number of old 70's era pins. Closest to the scrambling route on the right we played on a beautiful 5.8 corner crack. A number of arete and face routes nearby look quite good.

Oct 1- The guidebook for the Waterton, Crowsnest pass area is now in print. It is currrently at Tamarack Mall in Waterton, WholesaleOoutfitters in Letbridge, and the Lethbridge climbing wall. I am sending out a few copies to the Blairmore wall. Any other people who want copies can send me an order. Chirs Goble Box 84 Waterton T0K 2M0. As soon as I get some free time during a work day, I will see about contacting MEC to send some copies up there.

PDF copy of waterton guidebook

Oct 1 - I was down at Blackleaf the other day. Jake has put up quite a few new routes in the area. Most of them lie to the left of Black Chert Slab.

Aug 23rd - Added power point pages for anderson - bauerman - lost traverse, yarrow to goat lake hike, sofa - vimy traverse

May 25th - Added a link to blackiston creek for kayaking. I thought I had put this up some time ago, but apparently it was orphaned. I am still working on editing the final version of the guidebook. I am still trying get in contact with a couple of FA's to get some route names. I walked by the bluff by redrock and the old travois tracks were really quite obvious as they passed by the old blackfoot? kootenai? altar.

April 25th - New photo gallery to Lonsome Ridge. This is an apparently undeveloped area one valley south of Blackleaf Canyon Montana. The best way to get there is to drive down past Bynum towards Choteau. About 7km north of Choteau, a paved road takes off to the west. This is the Teton River road. It has a large sign and is located just before a large patch of scrub trees. It is the middle branch of the river. This means you want to stick to the north fork road instead of heading down to the south fork.

April 25th - New information and pictures added for Gargoyle Ridge (Sentinel Pass). New photo gallery for Blackleaf Canyon showing the slabby right side, back side, and north walls.

April 23rd - Put new pictures of Bear Creek up. Will be posting a new photo album of Blackleaf soon. Will also be updating images and info to Swiftcurrent. New rock climbing Guide Book only has one section left. It will be in stores before the May long weekend. I am just trying to track down some hard to find information. Thanks to anyone who has contributed.

April 11th - Went down to Drywood to get some extra pictures for the guide book. The ice still looked like it was in good shape. All the rock routes are free of snow. There were no wet spots on any of the routes. The approach is basically snow free.

April 10th- Went down to the Swiftcurrent River today. Got some pictures of the creek.

April 9th- Finally remembered to put the link up for the site map I made a few months ago. When summer comes I will update the headers so that navigating is easier. I have been working on redoing the rock climbing guidebook. It is pretty close to finished. I just have to get a few more bits of information from some local climbers.

Jan 31st 2004- Went down to the Blackleaf Canyon area near Bynum Montana yesterday. Found a nice, but short ice climb up by the Walling Reef (west of Dupuyer). Put up a new photo album of Blackleaf. What an area!

Dec 24th 2003- put some info up for the caslte widerness area rock climbs

Dec 23rd - Put up a new photo album of pictures for summit lake climbs. Thanks Dave. Updated some info on Treading water. Thanks Brad

Dec 19th - I took some time from my teaching job this morning to try and write down a bibliography of sorts for how the information from this site was obtained. Obviously not to polished of a job, but hopefully in can bes used to bring both sides in the discussion together. I never figured flame wars ever accomplished much other than entrenching original positions. I hope that people don't take one side or the other. There are valid concerns on both sides. Climbers should be ticked if routes they have set have been renamed, no matter how long after they were established this occurs, or how much effort went into tracking the FA down. People should also realize that because information for an area was given does not mean that people are claiming, or even want to be recognized for it.

Dec 18th - After soliciting updated info again for the area, I got a rather nasty response concerning things. I think this was in regards to arbitraty names being given to climbs where after several years, no information could be obtained. Because of this repsonse, and the obvious offence that was taken, I have gone through and dropped any arbitrary route names given to climbs. I have not updated all the first ascent information (still working on getting the basic info up), but as I have gotten recent info, I have included what I could. The history of most climbs, at least to anyone other than the FA, are uncertain. It would be great to get better info on the area. I believe all climbers would appreciate this. To those that have contributed info, thanks again for your help. To those that have been offended, I apologize, and if you want accurate information, and updated FA history, please let others outside your small communities know. I know how difficult this latter part is, so perhaps we should take advantage of site like rockclimbing.com or climbalberta.com to post information if there is uncertanity as to who, if anyone is documenting climbing history. If you want to take any information from this site to post, please feel free to cut and past. I have been trying to update things on rockclimbing.com, but have not had enough time for such a large project (hence this website).

Dec 17th - Updated some info on the Fernie area. I also updated the images of ice at Summit Lake (thanks Blair). I also put up a couple of old pictures of Hip Wader Gully and Treading Water over on Red Rock. If the email contacts at the bottom don't work, I put a space in the addresses to try and keep the spammers from finding my email adress so often.

Dec 14th - Spent some time adding photos to the rock climbing section. Images are up for all areas except Buchannon Gardens.

Dec 12th - I changed the rock section so that the frames were usuable. Bugs being fixed for internet explorer. Safari works great. Put info for Blackleaf Canyon (west of Augusta) up. Thanks Rob. Note no info yet for the Fernie area.

Dec11th - I think I found the bug that was preventing PC users from opening up the rock climbing links. I have redone these pages to fix this problem. Rock links should be up and running, but there are not many pictures yet. The guide book program is back in my hands so a new run is immenent (like you haven't heard that one before!). The information on Choteau is not up yet, so yes, the links don't go anywhere.

Dec 6th - Fixed email link off main page. Report on the ice climing opening social. Updated ice conditions.Put up page that shows which peaks are which.

Nov 30th - Linked info for most routes in the waterton area. Not linked to pages from othere areas. Added a few images to main pages in scrambling section.

Nov 29th - Started in on info for Waterton Rock, and Crowsnest pass. Deep links off the header are not working if you go from one area to another. Pictures will start to come when the text base is finished. Added image gallery to crypt ice climbs. Added image gallery to Crandell S. Ridge

Nov 27th - Went through the scrambles section and updated all the deep links. Put up basic info on rock climbing in the Gap, and upper tier of Drywood.

Nov 25th - Google search engine goes to main page not frame page! Added a link to go from "main page" to frame page with pull down links.

 

open up the main page here

email me at cgoble @ allstream.net or chris.goble @ westwind.ab.ca

note there are no spaces between the @ when you send your email.