This little traveled area has a long approach that is well worth it. The valley is a true icebox, so it is ideal for early/late season ascents or during the middle of a chinook. While most people put lots of effort into the approach, they usually end up settling for the relatively poor right side. This is perhaps due to the intimidating looks of the Left Gully. Don't be fooled, choose the left and the 4 km approach won't seem nearly as bad. Chinooks often leave a hard crust of ice on the long sidehills that have to be crossed at the start of the approach. If the snow looks crusty, snowshoes can be a real liability. The 300m long sections of sidehills have been known to take over an hour each for people with good snowshoes. Occasionaly people can get by traversing them with crampons, but usually the crust is too thin, and the time required to change on and off too great. Skis are the preffered way to get up here.