BLACKLEAF CANYON

Introduction

West of the town of Augusta lies acres and acres of large solid walls of limestone. With few people living in the area, and relatively few access roads into the Bob Marshall wilderness, little climbing has been established. As you drive into the area and see outcroppings like the humongous Castle Reef (just north of the entrance to Gibson Reservoir), the potential of the area truly becomes stunning. When driving south along highway 89 towards Augusta, you will see the following large formations (from north to south) Walling Reef (west of Dupyer), Volcano Reef (where Blackleaf Canyon is located- west of Bynum), Castle Reef, and Sawtooth Ridge.

With walls up to 600 feet high, and a solid access road, Blakcleaf Canyon has been the first of several potential areas to see development. Located near the Bynum reservoir, this is a sensitive environmental area. Potentilla, a bushy plant with yellow blossoms dominates the area. Undeveloped camping, complete with a pit toilet is found at the entrance to the canyon. Expect a climbing area similar to an undeveloped Yamnuska, with no approach.

Rock

The rock in this area is limestone. Particularly, it is a chert which seems to be dominated with small edges. Expect a variety of features like slabs, roofs, and bulges. While the rock is solid, numerous large flakes seem to get dislodged during the first ascent of most routes. Helmet use should be considered mandatory.

Getting There

Take U.S. 287 to Choteau and go north to Bynum. Take an odometer reading and a left at Parketts Grocery store and look for the signs to Bynum Reservoir and Blackleaf Road #145. On a good gravel road at about 4.2 miles you will pass the Bynum Reservoir turnoff on the left. Continue heading west on Blackleaf Road. At about 11.7 miles you will pass the Pollock Ranch Road on the left. Continue heading west by northwest on Blackleaf Road. At about 13.5 miles you will cross a cattle guard with signs marking your route. Follow the signs for Blackleaf Road and Blackleaf Wildlife Management Area. At about 16.1 miles go left at an intersection marked Blackleaf Canyon. You will cross Blackleaf Creek, sometimes dry, and eventually arrive at the trailhead at about 20 miles. The climbs are on the main vertical wall just left of the parking lot. There are several miles of rock walls on both sides of the canyon. A number of freestanding pillars exist to the left of the main wall. Expect an approach of about 5 to 10 minutes from the car.

For links to a great site with Montana topo maps of all sorts, click here

For a basic road map to Montana, click here

This information, and all route info was supplied to me by Rob Hagler. Thanks.